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About 12 years ago, they came back to work for their mother as the business started booming. Then she added a few tables, and people would pick up tamales and stay for a tamale lunch. Delia Lubin hired friends and compatible neighbors to work as tamale makers. When Ninfa’s restaurant in Houston contracted with Lubin to supply tamales, the tamale maker rented a McAllen building for production, opening her first store in south McAllen in 1998. Tamale aficionados at doctors’ and lawyers’ office kept buying more and more, and the Lubins began providing tamales to locations in Edinburg and Pharr while other customers came to the Lubins’ house.
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She realized I was a more of a people-person and sold a lot more than she did,” said Sofia Lubin. “Mom was the one who put it all together. Little by little, the business grew, and Lubin’s daughters helped her, by chopping garlic or helping her sell door to door as sixth graders. My mother had a daily route – going door-to-door.” So she bought more ingredients and made more tamales. She bought five pounds of masa, sold her first tamales and had a profit of $10. “She felt that wouldn’t be setting the right example for her kids, so she decided to make and sell tamales. She couldn’t find a decent job but didn’t want to raise her children on government assistance, explained her oldest daughter Sofia Lubin. That’s in stark contrast to the early 1980s when Delia Lubin returned to the Valley from Chicago. Every day they sell 18 types of tamales at their five dine- in and drive-through Hidalgo County locations: Pharr, Edinburg, McAllen and Pharr. Now Lubin and her three daughters, Sofia, Laura and Lorena, operate the remarkably successful Delia’s tamale stores/restaurants. A generation ago, tamales were a beloved holiday and party food, but Lubin transformed tamales into a year- round food. Singlehandedly, Delia Lubin of Delia’s has changed the Valley’s perspective on tamales. Delia Lubin, working with her daughters Sofia, Lorena and Laura, has convinced Valley residents to eat tamales every day, not just on holidays, with her namesake stores, Delia’s, stocked with 18 different types of tamales. Yet traditional holiday foods are shifting with the times, too. The special foods prepared for the holidays still evoke the happy gatherings, bygone days and an era when the pace of life was slower. Our strongest holiday memories of home and family tend to center on food - the whole family, from infants and great grandparents to distant cousins, gathered at the table on Christmas.